Estancia Cristina + Upsala Glacier

Estancia Cristina is a historic Patagonian ranch founded in 1914 by the Masters family (English immigrants) on the northern shore of Lake Argentino, deep inside Los Glaciares National Park in Santa Cruz province, Argentine Patagonia. It is the only way to see the Upsala Glacier up close — one of the largest glaciers in South America (53 km long, 595 km² in surface area, a glacier front 5 km wide and 50-60 m high above the lake, three times larger than the famous Perito Moreno but far less visited because it has no overland access) — and one of the most exclusive and memorable day trips you can do from El Calafate. The classic excursion is a full day (12 hours, USD 280-380 per person): 7 AM departure by bus from Calafate to Puerto Bandera (45 km, 1 hr), 2.5-hour catamaran cruise on the María Turquesa across the North Arm of Lake Argentino with a close-up view of the Upsala Glacier face (cruising between floating icebergs, an iconic Patagonia photograph), arrival at Estancia Cristina, welcome and tour of the 1914 main house, 4WD drive up to the Cerro Norte viewpoints to see the Upsala from land and Lake Guillermo, guided 3-km / 2-hour trek to the Fossil Canyon with a geologist guide (a unique geological formation containing marine fossils from the Cretaceous period — ammonites, bivalves, gastropods 65-100 million years old, when the region was beneath the ocean before the Andean uplift; removal is forbidden but you can touch and photograph them in place), traditional Patagonian lunch at the ranch (lamb roasted al asador, Patagonian empanadas, fried bread with dulce), a visit to the small Masters family museum with photos and 20th-century objects, the return cruise to Puerto Bandera at 4 PM, and arrival back in Calafate around 7 PM. The excursion includes round-trip bus, catamaran cruise, 4WD trip, guided trek, lunch and all on-site visits, but does not include the Los Glaciares National Park entry fee (USD 30 for foreign adults). Book exclusively at estanciacristina.com with 1-3 months advance notice (high season December-February fills up 2-3 months ahead). Operating season October-April (closed in winter — the lake partially freezes and the cruise becomes impossible). Capacity is capped at ~80 people per day by the catamaran. For a deeper experience the estancia also offers exclusive overnight stays at Estancia Cristina Lodge (boutique-adventure category, 20 rooms) on a 2-night minimum, full board with all excursions included (cruises, 4WD, trek to Cerro Norte at 1,000 m elevation, Fossil Canyon, horseback rides, kayaking), USD 980-1,480 per person/night full board + activities + transfers, with reservations 4-6 months in advance. The excursion is complementary to a Perito Moreno visit (not a substitute): if your time in Calafate is 3+ days we recommend doing both (Perito Moreno half day USD 80-150 with accessible boardwalks + Estancia Cristina full day USD 280-380); with only 2 days, prioritize Perito Moreno for ease of access. Best season: November-March with long daylight (15-17 hours) and 8-22°C / 46-72°F temperatures; December-February is peak season with prices ~20% higher; October and April are quieter but colder (3-15°C / 37-59°F). Always pack warm layers, hat, gloves and SPF 50+ sunscreen even in summer (the cold wind on the catamaran and at the glacier drops the wind chill by 10-15°C / 18-27°F). The Upsala Glacier has retreated about 12 km in recent decades due to climate change, creating the iceberg bay that is one of the most photographed scenes in Argentine Patagonia.

Hour-by-Hour Day Plan

7:00 AM — Departure from Calafate

Hotel pickup in central Calafate. Scheduled bus to Puerto Bandera (45 km, 1 hr along scenic RP 11 with views of Lake Argentino).

8:00 AM — 2.5-Hour Cruise

Boarding the María Turquesa catamaran (capacity 80, heated cabin, restrooms, café). Cruise across the North Arm of Lake Argentino. Sailing through floating icebergs is one of the day's iconic moments. Close-up view of the Upsala Glacier face — the boat approaches within 1-2 km of the 5-km-wide front (you can hear the ice falls).

10:30 AM — Arrival at Estancia Cristina

Disembark at the private dock. Welcome with mate and biscuits. Short tour of the 1914 main ranch house.

11:00 AM — 4WD Trip to the Viewpoints

4WD vehicles climb through the Patagonian steppe up to the Cerro Norte viewpoints. Panoramic view of the Upsala Glacier from land (a different perspective than the cruise), Lake Guillermo, and hanging glaciers. Photo stops, wildlife sightings (guanacos, condors).

12:30 PM — Trek to the Fossil Canyon

Guided 3 km / 2-hour walk with a geologist guide through a unique canyon with marine fossils from the Cretaceous (65-100 million years old): ammonites, bivalves, gastropods. The region was beneath the ocean before the Andean uplift. Moderate difficulty with some climbs. Ages 8+. Removing fossils is forbidden (national-park heritage).

2:30 PM — Patagonian Lunch

Traditional Patagonian fare at the ranch: lamb roasted al asador (3-4 hours over fire), Patagonian empanadas, garden salads, fried bread with dulce. Mendoza wine and mineral water included. Rustic setting with an indoor fire.

3:30 PM — Museum + Free Time

Visit to the small Masters family museum with photos, tools and 20th-century objects documenting life on the ranch since 1914. Free time for photos at the dock.

4:00 PM — Return Cruise

Re-board the catamaran. 2-hour return cruise to Puerto Bandera with alternative stops to view hanging glaciers and the Upsala face from a different angle.

6:00-7:00 PM — Back in Calafate

Bus back to central Calafate. Hotel arrival typically at 7 PM. Total tour duration: 12 hours.

The Upsala Glacier — Quick Facts

The Upsala Glacier takes its name from Uppsala University (Sweden), whose 1908 geographic expedition mapped it for the first time. Key facts:

• Length: 53 km / 33 mi (one of the longest in South America).
• Surface area: 595 km² (three times the size of the Perito Moreno).
• Glacier front: 5 km wide × 50-60 m above the lake.
• Origin: Southern Patagonian Ice Field (the world's third-largest freshwater reservoir after Antarctica and Greenland).
• Retreat: approximately 12 km in recent decades due to climate change.
• Iceberg bay: formed by the retreat — one of the most photographed scenes in Patagonia.

Combine with Other Calafate Excursions

• Perito Moreno Glacier — the most famous, accessible by boardwalks (USD 80-150 half day).
• Glacier Cruise — standard tour to Spegazzini + Onelli (USD 130-180 full day).
• Glaciarium — ice museum in Calafate (USD 18-25, 2-3 hours).
• El Chaltén — Argentina's trekking capital, 215 km north (3 hrs).
• Laguna de los Tres + Mt. Fitz Roy — the iconic trek from El Chaltén.

Suggested itineraries: 5 days Calafate-Chaltén · 7 days Southern Patagonia · 14 days complete Patagonia.