Esquel is a city of 35,000 inhabitants nestled in the Chubut cordillera at 570 metres above sea level (lat -42.9, lng -71.3167). Founded by Welsh colonists in the late 19th century, it is famous worldwide for La Trochita, the Old Patagonian Express: a narrow-gauge steam train (75 cm) that has operated since 1945, one of the last working steam locomotives in the world. Just 50 km away is Los Alerces National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017, protecting ancient alerce forests (Fitzroya cupressoides) with specimens over 2,600 years old. In winter, La Hoya ski resort offers excellent powder snow at prices far more affordable than Bariloche.
Getting there — distances & times
| From | Distance | Flight | Bus | Drive |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Buenos Aires → Bariloche | 1640 km | 2 h 20 | 22 h | 18 h |
| Buenos Aires → El Calafate | 2700 km | 3 h 15 | 40 h | 35 h |
| Buenos Aires → Ushuaia | 3050 km | 3 h 35 | 50+ h | — |
| Bariloche → El Calafate | 1490 km | 1 h 45 | 28 h | 24 h |
| El Calafate → Ushuaia | 600 km | 1 h 15 | 18 h | 14 h |
Month-by-month climate
| Month | Temp. | Rain | Crowds | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 8° / 22°C | 40 mm | High season | |
| Feb | 8° / 22°C | 40 mm | ||
| Mar | 6° / 18°C | 50 mm | ||
| Apr | 3° / 14°C | 70 mm | ||
| May | 0° / 10°C | 90 mm | ||
| Jun | -2° / 6°C | 110 mm | Ski season | |
| Jul | -2° / 6°C | 120 mm | ||
| Aug | -1° / 8°C | 90 mm | ||
| Sep | 1° / 12°C | 60 mm | ||
| Oct | 4° / 16°C | 40 mm | ||
| Nov | 6° / 19°C | 40 mm | ||
| Dec | 7° / 21°C | 40 mm |
How to Get There
Esquel Airport (EQS) receives flights from Buenos Aires (2.5 hours). From Bariloche: 280 km south via RN 40, 3.5-4 hours. From El Bolson: 130 km south, 2 hours. Esquel sits on the famous RN 40.
What to See and Do
La Trochita — Old Patagonian Express
The narrow-gauge steam train (75 cm, the narrowest in regular service worldwide) is Esquel's icon. Immortalised by Paul Theroux, the train covers 25 km between Esquel and the Mapuche community of Nahuel Pan in 2 hours, with original 1922 Baldwin and Henschel steam locomotives, wooden carriages with wood-burning stoves. Price: USD 15-25. Runs year-round (variable schedules). Book ahead in summer.
Los Alerces National Park (UNESCO)
Declared a World Heritage Site in 2017, Los Alerces protects 263,000 hectares of Andean-Patagonian forest with crystal-clear lakes and ancient forests. The alerce is one of the longest-lived tree species on Earth: the "Grandfather Alerce" is 2,600 years old. Activities: hiking (trail to the Millennium Alerce, 1.5 hours), lake cruises on Futalaufquen and Menendez, trout fishing, camping. Entry: USD 5-10.
La Hoya Ski Resort
15 km from Esquel. Family ski resort with excellent powder snow (south-facing slopes preserve snow). 30 runs, 7 lifts. Season: June to September. Significantly cheaper than Cerro Catedral: day pass USD 25-40. Ideal for families and beginners.
Trevelin and Tulips
25 km from Esquel, Trevelin is a Welsh town founded in 1885. Historic flour mill, Welsh chapel, Welsh teahouses. In October-November, tulip fields around Trevelin create a spectacular display of colour.
Best Time to Visit
- Summer (December-March): Ideal for Los Alerces (accessible trails, lake cruises, fishing). La Trochita runs more frequently.
- Autumn (April-May): Spectacular colours in Los Alerces. La Trochita with autumn scenery. Fewer tourists.
- Winter (June-August): Ski season at La Hoya. La Trochita with snow is magical.
- Spring (September-November): Tulips in Trevelin (October). Snowmelt, peak waterfalls.
