Ruta Nacional 40 is Argentina's longest highway and one of the most legendary roads in the world. At 5,224 kilometres from La Quiaca on the Bolivian border to Cabo Virgenes at the southern tip of Santa Cruz, it crosses 11 provinces, 27 mountain passes and landscapes ranging from northern cacti to southern glaciers. The Patagonian section between Bariloche and El Calafate is the most epic and challenging: 1,600 km of infinite steppe, hidden lakes, ghost towns and a solitude that recalibrates any traveller's perspective.
Getting there — distances & times
| From | Distance | Flight | Bus | Drive |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Buenos Aires → Bariloche | 1640 km | 2 h 20 | 22 h | 18 h |
| Buenos Aires → El Calafate | 2700 km | 3 h 15 | 40 h | 35 h |
| Buenos Aires → Ushuaia | 3050 km | 3 h 35 | 50+ h | — |
| Bariloche → El Calafate | 1490 km | 1 h 45 | 28 h | 24 h |
| El Calafate → Ushuaia | 600 km | 1 h 15 | 18 h | 14 h |
Month-by-month climate
| Month | Temp. | Rain | Crowds | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 8° / 22°C | 40 mm | High season | |
| Feb | 8° / 22°C | 40 mm | ||
| Mar | 6° / 18°C | 50 mm | ||
| Apr | 3° / 14°C | 70 mm | ||
| May | 0° / 10°C | 90 mm | ||
| Jun | -2° / 6°C | 110 mm | Ski season | |
| Jul | -2° / 6°C | 120 mm | ||
| Aug | -1° / 8°C | 90 mm | ||
| Sep | 1° / 12°C | 60 mm | ||
| Oct | 4° / 16°C | 40 mm | ||
| Nov | 6° / 19°C | 40 mm | ||
| Dec | 7° / 21°C | 40 mm |
Bariloche to El Bolson to Esquel
The first segment descends through the Andean Comarca. El Bolson (130 km, 2 hours on tarmac) is a hippie community famous for its artisan market (Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays), craft breweries and hop fields. Esquel (320 km from Bariloche) is the last sizeable town before the steppe. Here starts La Trochita, the narrow-gauge steam train immortalised by Paul Theroux in "The Old Patagonian Express", and the gateway to Los Alerces National Park with alerce trees over 2,600 years old.
Cueva de las Manos: 9,000-year-old cave art
A must-stop is Cueva de las Manos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. Located in the Rio Pinturas canyon, it contains cave paintings up to 9,300 years old: hundreds of hand stencils, hunting scenes, geometric patterns and local wildlife depictions. The guided visit lasts approximately 1.5 hours, entry USD 10-15.
The central steppe: the most challenging stretch
Between Gobernador Costa and Bajo Caracoles lie over 500 km of gravel with very few fuel stations (sometimes none in 300 km), no mobile signal, no roadside assistance and wind exceeding 100 km/h. Bajo Caracoles is possibly the smallest and most remote town on Ruta 40: a handful of houses, a basic hotel and a fuel station that may or may not have fuel.
El Chalten to El Calafate
The final 220 km connect El Chalten with El Calafate on a paved road with spectacular views of Fitz Roy and the Patagonian ice fields. Excellent tarmac and magazine-cover scenery.
Budget for Ruta 40
Estimate: 7 days Bariloche-Calafate
- SUV hire (7 days): USD 560-840
- Fuel (1,600 km + reserve): USD 200-280
- Accommodation (6 nights): USD 180-600
- Meals: USD 150-300
- Entries (Cueva de las Manos, etc.): USD 20-40
- Total per person (2 travellers): USD 555-1,030
