Uquia is a tiny village of 500 inhabitants at 2,818 meters altitude in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, Jujuy province, Argentina (lat -23.3056, lng -65.3567), 11 km south of Humahuaca on RN 9. Its treasure is the Church of San Francisco de Paula (17th century), which houses a globally unique collection of Arquebus Angel paintings: angels dressed in 17th-century Spanish military garb carrying arquebus firearms. These paintings belong to the Cusco School and represent an extraordinary cultural syncretism between Catholic religion and Andean cosmovision, where warrior angels replaced local deities as intermediaries between heaven and earth. Similar collections exist only in churches in Peru and Bolivia. The village is also known for crafts carved from cardon cactus wood and weavings. Uquia is part of the Quebrada de Humahuaca (UNESCO) and easily visited from Tilcara or Humahuaca.
Getting there — distances & times
| From | Distance | Flight | Bus | Drive |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Buenos Aires (EZE) | 1500 km | 2 h 20 | 20–22 h | 15–17 h |
| New York (JFK) | 9400 km | 12 h + 2 h 20 layover | — | — |
| Madrid (MAD) | 11300 km | 14 h + 2 h 20 layover | — | — |
| São Paulo (GRU) | 2800 km | 4 h 30 | — | — |
| Córdoba | 890 km | 1 h 30 | 11–13 h | 9–10 h |
| Mendoza | 1200 km | 2 h | 17–19 h | 13–15 h |
Month-by-month climate
| Month | Temp. | Rain | Crowds | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 16° / 28°C | 180 mm | Rainy summer | |
| Feb | 15° / 27°C | 155 mm | ||
| Mar | 14° / 26°C | 110 mm | ||
| Apr | 11° / 24°C | 30 mm | Dry season starts | |
| May | 8° / 22°C | 8 mm | ||
| Jun | 5° / 20°C | 3 mm | ||
| Jul | 4° / 20°C | 3 mm | Winter break | |
| Aug | 6° / 22°C | 5 mm | ||
| Sep | 9° / 25°C | 10 mm | Clear skies | |
| Oct | 12° / 27°C | 25 mm | ||
| Nov | 14° / 28°C | 60 mm | ||
| Dec | 16° / 28°C | 140 mm | Holidays |
Typical prices by category
| Category | Budget | Mid-range | Luxury |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hotel/night | USD 15–25 | USD 50–90 | USD 150–350 |
| Food/day | USD 12–18 | USD 25–40 | USD 60–120 |
| Day tour | USD 40–55 | USD 60–90 | USD 120–200 |
| Car rental/day | USD 30–45 | USD 50–70 | USD 90–150 |
Approximate ranges in USD as of April 2026. May vary with Argentine peso exchange rate.
How to Get There
Uquia is on RN 9, between Tilcara and Humahuaca.
From Humahuaca
11 km south on RN 9, 15 minutes on pavement.
From Tilcara
40 km north on RN 9, 45 minutes.
From Salta
310 km via RN 9, 4-4.5 hours.
Transport
Jujuy-Humahuaca buses stop at Uquia if requested. You can also take a taxi from Humahuaca (USD 5-8). Uquia is visited as a stop on the Quebrada route.
What to See and Do
Church of San Francisco de Paula and the Arquebus Angels
The church dates from 1691 and is a National Historic Monument. Inside, it preserves 9 Arquebus Angel paintings from the Cusco School (17th century). The angels are dressed in Spanish colonial military garb — plumed hats, embroidered tunics, boots — and carry arquebus firearms. This iconography is unique: it combines the Catholic tradition with Andean cosmovision, where warrior angels represented celestial entities that indigenous peoples could assimilate with their own deities. The paintings are in excellent condition. The church has a cardon wood ceiling and gilded altarpiece. Can be visited with a local guide.
Cardon Wood Crafts
Local artisans work cardon cactus wood (obtained from naturally dead cacti) to create frames, figures, crosses and decorative objects. Cardon wood is light, with a characteristic dotted texture, and each piece is unique. Buy directly from the artisans at much lower prices than urban shops.
Village Walk
Uquia is a minimal, authentic and silent village. Adobe houses, dirt streets, a plaza with trees and the church. Walkable in 30 minutes. The feeling of being in a place frozen in time is genuine. No mass tourism here.
When to Visit
- Year-round: The church is open year-round (check hours, generally morning and afternoon). Climate conditions are the same as the rest of the Quebrada de Humahuaca: dry and sunny most of the year, with summer rains.
- Best season: April to November (dry, sunny, comfortable).
- Avoid: January-February if rains are intense (road may have issues).
Practical Information
Accommodation
Uquia has no tourist lodging. Nearest options are Humahuaca (11 km) with hostels and inns, or Tilcara (40 km) with the Quebrada's widest selection.
Services
Uquia has minimal services: a general store, a family restaurant. No ATM, pharmacy or gas station. Bring cash and supplies.
Church Visit
The church is usually open mornings (9:00-12:00) and afternoons (15:00-18:00). Sometimes it is closed; ask at neighboring houses for the caretaker with the key. A voluntary donation is appreciated. A local guide explains the Arquebus Angels' history.
Budget
Free visit (voluntary donation at the church). Cardon wood crafts: USD 5-30 depending on size. Taxi from Humahuaca: USD 5-8.
