The Circuito Chico is, without question, the most iconic and popular excursion in San Carlos de Bariloche. This approximately 60-kilometre circular route hugs the Llao Llao Peninsula, offering spectacular panoramic views of Lake Nahuel Huapi, Lake Moreno, Lake Perito Moreno and surrounding mountains cloaked in forests of coihue, cypress and arrayan trees. Every curve reveals a landscape more breathtaking than the last.
The route begins and ends in central Bariloche, following Avenida Exequiel Bustillo westward along the southern shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi. Along the way, a succession of viewpoints, beaches, historic chapels and points of interest make this drive an unparalleled combination of nature, history and Patagonian gastronomy.
Cerro Campanario: the most spectacular view
The first major stop is Cerro Campanario, at kilometre 17.5 of Avenida Bustillo. A 7-minute chairlift takes you from the base (860 m) to the summit (1,049 m), where you are rewarded with what National Geographic ranked as one of the world's ten best panoramic views. From the top you can simultaneously see Lake Nahuel Huapi, Lake Moreno East, Lake Moreno West, Laguna El Trebol, Victoria Island, the Llao Llao Peninsula, Cerro Catedral, Cerro Otto and Cerro Lopez. On a clear day, the 360-degree panorama spans dozens of kilometres in every direction.
At the summit there is a cafe where you can enjoy coffee or hot chocolate with the most spectacular backdrop imaginable. The chairlift operates year-round and costs approximately USD 8-12. If you prefer to walk, a trail of about 30 minutes ascends the southern slope.
Hotel Llao Llao: a Patagonian icon
Continuing along the route, you reach the Hotel Llao Llao, one of Argentina's most luxurious hotels and a true Patagonian icon. Originally built in 1938 from cypress wood and stone, the hotel was designed by architect Alejandro Bustillo in a style fusing Alpine architecture with native Patagonian materials.
Although staying there is an exclusive luxury (rooms from USD 500/night), anyone can stroll the gardens, have a coffee in the lakeside tearoom or play the 18-hole golf course that many consider the most beautiful in South America.
Puerto Panuelo and lake excursions
Puerto Panuelo is the departure point for Bariloche's most important lake excursions: the boat trip to Victoria Island and the Arrayanes Forest, the excursion to Puerto Blest and the Cantaros Waterfall, and the legendary Andean Lake Crossing to Puerto Varas (Chile) across three lakes and two mountain passes.
Capilla San Eduardo
Capilla San Eduardo is one of the architectural gems of the circuit. This small stone-and-cypress church, built in 1938 by the same architect as Hotel Llao Llao, sits on the lakeshore in a forest clearing that looks straight out of a storybook.
Colonia Suiza: the gastronomic detour
While not strictly part of the Circuito Chico, Colonia Suiza is a 3 km detour that is absolutely worth making. This small village was founded by Swiss immigrants in the early 20th century and retains a unique Alpine charm with wooden houses, flower gardens and a central square where an artisan market is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
The star dish is the Patagonian curanto: meats (chicken, pork, lamb), vegetables, potatoes and apples slow-cooked underground with hot stones — a tradition inherited from the Mapuche people. Curanto costs approximately USD 15-20 per person.
How to do Circuito Chico
Guided bus tour
The most comfortable option. A panoramic tour with bilingual guide and stops at all main points lasts about 4 hours and costs from USD 28. Combinations with Colonia Suiza (USD 55) or Cerro Catedral (USD 56) fill a full day.
Rental car
The best option for total freedom. Cars hire from USD 40 per day. The route is fully paved and well signposted.
Bicycle
A popular option for the more athletic. The circuit has moderate elevation changes and can be completed in 4-5 hours of pedalling. Bikes can be hired in central Bariloche for approximately USD 15-20 per day. Watch out for the Patagonian wind, which can be intense in the afternoon.